Weather Junkie or the addiction to the “ride” conditions

I’m in the train to Geneva airport. God if he exists knows how much I like riding this train. The view on the Leman’s Lake is just breath taking. I usually take the time of this trip to reminisce on the rides I shred in the mountains.

I just spent sometimes in Verbier with friends and it was so good. A part of me feels that I belong to those mountains. The other seems to differ and  that I’m a kid of the ocean. In any case I feel the most at peace in or on both of them.

So yeah weather junkie? Indeed for those who know me it is certain that junkie and I don’t mix. But… The first time this idea took shape in my head was years ago. When my snowboard mentor (he looked like yoda wearing red), told me stories about riders going into depression in Chamonix because there was no fresh powder. They were walking trough the resort with no smile on their face and no joy in their hearts…

My brain stored that info and went on with other things. Then this year I was in Bali and a close friend of mine who came to visit asked me the following question: “Do you feel that you are addicted to surfing? ”. She meant it the way that if I don’t surf for a certain a time I would be in less of a good mood. Again my brain stored the info and continued.

Then I arrived in Verbier to realise that the snow conditions were less than fullfiling to say the least. Of course we always manage to go down on icy rocky slope but this is less of a joy than to do a massive spray in the deep fresh powder. This year my sixth sense told me to stay 3 more days than the rest and boy was he right…

70 cm were delivered in 2 nights and it felt so good just to imagine the trace I would draw the next morning. Indeed my first turn in the deep snow sprayed the biggest smile on my face.

So yeah I have to admit it I’m a weather junkie. I will check the snow or wave forecasts several times a day on my phone. The sight of a snowflake will make me smile like a kid and the view of perfect waves unfolding while I’m waxing my board will recharge the sparks in my eyes for days.

This post is dedicated to all my riding bros with which I shared unforgetable sessions… You know who you all are!

See you soon in the world!

Unleashing my inner Tiger or the way to know myself a tiny bit better…

Hey you!

A couple of days ago I came by this quote from Eleanor Roosevelt: “Do one thing every day that scares you.” She was the spouse of Sir Franklin and has the longest First Lady mandate of the U.S. history. As you might know, it made my brain rumbles. I started to ask myself: Do I face fear even once a week? What sorts of fear? What is fear at the end of the day?

The answer that I came with is not a massive yes but goes likes this:

Since I left my cozy uber-well organized and quite full of so many different things Belgian life, I have changed. Travelling does that to you. You do different things, meet different people and encounter such a deep variety of point of views that it does reshape yours everyday.

Here you are with the changes I witnessed:

  • I use to hate cheese, the smell, the taste; especially the ones that my friend Nicolas would rub his finger in, in order to try to stick them under my nose while we were kids. Yeah the one that could kill you in one breathe. Well guess what? While I was in Hossegor with my friend Rico we ate cheese every morning for breakfast and I loved it.
  • I use to think that driving a motorbike wasn’t for me, that I was no good for it, you know that sort of bad mantra lying in InstagramCapture_f77862fb-e065-4b55-9c7b-b82651ae5ce8the back of your head. Tom Engels taught me once (like 10 years ago). Meanwhile it always has been a dream of mine to have an old-time custom motorbike such as the one you at Deus in Canggu. The week of my birthday my friend Marco came to me saying: “Dude there is this motorbike that looks perfect for you on the Buy and Sell Bali group”. Yes I bought it and trained myself riding it in my street and now I drive it everyday.
  • Getting fired was one of my biggest fears. I have to admit 5 months later that it is probably one of the biggest gift life brought me lately. To be fully honest I felt most of the time like a Lion in a cage in my old job. It was more and more demanding on me to deal with the bureaucracy, the inertia that a big corporate impose and the political games… When I started this journey there was a question that really bugged me: “What do you do?” Now I’m happy to say I don’t give a fuck anymore. Do I have an answer to it? Most def not! But I have several plans and I’m confident some of them will pull true. When I doubt that the voice of BAZ LUHRMANN in his song “Everybody is free to wear sunscreen” comes to mind:

“Don’t feel guilty if you don’t know what you want to do with your life. The most interesting people I know didn’t know at 22 what they wanted to do with their lives. Some of the most interesting 40-year-olds I know still don’t.” Anyway listen to that song it is worth it.

So back to that quote about fear, I guess I’m not yet as strong as Eleanor was but I see life differently dough. I don’t think I need a “job” in the conventional way we tend to see it. Been fucking there done fucking that! We as Europeans  tend to think that our big corporate job should be our only source of money. Guess what? We are drastically wrong. Because if this source vanished we are screwed. I know now that I will built different projects that will provide for my life. One of my friends made fun of me the other day, claiming that I was seeing opportunities everywhere. I hope this will remain for life…

So I guess you are wondering why I decided to choose that picture for a header. Well 2 weeks ago I was at the beach with my board under the arm about to enter the water. The waves were big, when I say big the one you see in the picture doesn’t do justice to the set. So I was there asking myself can I handle it. A guy was surfing one of those beast and you could easily have put another guy standing on his shoulders they wouldn’t have reached the top of the wave. I was about to bail.

To say that I was scared was an understatement, I was about to transform in a she-male. But a small voice in my head was like: “Tony Bagous my men you can do it don’t be a sissy”. Yeah that voici in my head tends to make fun of me sometimes. Anyhow, I was like fuck it lets go. Medewi is an easy wave anyway. I manage to use a lull time to reach the peak. I sat there in the water for a good 20 minutes watching the other surfers having a blast riding those truck size waves. Then one came in, I looked her in the eye and started paddling. The drop was intense and the rest well you might have seen on fbook.

So yeah! All together, I am happier man. I accomplished one dream to reallocate myself to Bali and to be able to surf everyday but there is yet a lot to be build.

Stay tuned and see you in the world!

Moske

GOPRO MISSING episode 2! Owner found!

Hey dear readers,

I hope you are alive and kicking today! Cuz I am! This quick post to let you know, that after a thorough investigation, we were able to reunite the Gopro and his owner.

First and for all thx a lot at the people of Canggu Chronicles for their wonderful article about my fairy tail love live and Sean from Oldman’s for your help.

How did it happen? Well by luck. I was studying Indo at Oldman’s I was on the verge of leaving and I recognized her.

So like Hannibal Smith would say: “I love it when a plan comes together”

Thx for all you of your shares and the fact that you made me belief in us humble humans!

Lost Gopro please share so we can find the owner!!

Hey my peeps!

You know how much I believe in people. This week I found an Iphone that I was able to get back to the owner. It was actually lying in a pocket bag on my bike.

Today on my Bday 19th of march around 19:00 2015, I found a Gopro 3+ on a table in the bar called Oldman’s at Batu Bolong surf spot in Canggu.

She was with a teacher.

The picture of the owner is here on top! Please share so we can find her asap.

Thx and have an awesome day!

Crash, learn, live, smile and get lucky,

Hello my dearest reader, How is life treating you lately? Mine keeps being interesting, different, peculiar, and curious with a hint of atypical. So yeah I landed in Bali a week ago; since then I found my new place, open my bank account, might have found a job, surfed my ass off, started all the papers for my visa and started to learn Bahasa (official language of Indonesia). I’m enumerating all this in the purpose of using it as an excuse to the fact that I didn’t post anything since last Sunday. I guess some of you would like to know why is there a picture of my knee that looks like French tartar in the header. Well it is linked to yesterday’s surf and it goes a little bit like this: I arrived on a beach called Geger in the middle of Nusa Dua. The easiest way to access the spot, that breaks on the reef a km a way from the beach. You have to take a 5 mins boat ride. Which I did, you could see nice set of a 1,5 m coming while cruising to the spot. The captain stopped the engine looked at me said something that I approximated to “jump” while pointing at the deep blue “deep” water. The waves were breaking 150 meters ahead. I have to admit, I wasn’t plenty enthusiast about the jump. I asked him if he could come back to pick me up he said something that was a clear no. I asked how do I go back? He just pointed at the beach far away. I was like: ok fuck it lets go! Jumped in attached my leash and paddled in.sign2 So far so good met 3 spanish guys and scored some waves. I touched the reef once with my foot but nothing bad. Then… A set caught me in and the third waves smashed me on the reef, which my knee encountered with a violence that made 50 Shades of Grey looked like My Little Poney. At that time I knew my knee was hurt, I didn’t know how bad dough. Reached it with my hand and felt a tiny hole in which my finger could enter… Yes for a brief instant my thoughts were: I near deep water with a bloody knee, not good, tidak bagus. My brain was kind enough to flash some images of Jaws. Usually when that sort of things happen to me, lucky enough my brains goes in prioritizing mode. The answer he came with was quite obvious: “Paddle to the beach dumb ass, we will assess the damages under the shower”. Twenty minutes later, I touch the sand and felt like Xris Columbus (Xris VMK if you are reading this post this abbreviation is for you). I have to admit my legs were a bit shaky. Went to the shower the boat captain was still there and told me to put lime on my wound. I was like great idea I always go surfing with lime in my pocket! Altogether, no stitches cuz it spent too much time in the water, Antibiotics and I should be able to go back in the water in 5 days. So yeah I was lucky no big injury! Take care and enjoy life to the fullest! Mini Temple

Do I feel lonely sometimes or my last tribulations in the land of the Lion aka Lanka,

In the last days someone asked me if I felt lonely sometimes during this journey. To be quite honest I never thought about it before or maybe never conceptualized it that way. I love to travel alone because it pushes you to meet new people, to connect, stay positive and see anything as a new opportunity. I have to confess something that will shock you or even make you crack a laugh. I AM SHY. I have been since I’m a kid. Not so many people knows about this even less agree to believe it. Thanks I guess to the way I act and interact with people. I’m most of the time perceived as layback, relax, arrogant but certainly not shy. I’m ok with that and the people that I truly met know me and they know I love them dearly.

cimeterrySo travelling on my own requires of me to go out of my shell or comfort zone a lot of the time. I’m always so surprised about the results and the number of friends I make on the way. I met many peoples during this last 4 months some that will only cross my path during this stride of my life some I will meet again like no time have passed. So yes I do feel lonely sometimes when I have to part ways with a big group of friends or when one of my closed ones have their birthdays at home. But the sorrow of those moments always hides new encounters that bring a different spice to this adventure.

Lately I met a crew of French guys that are really good surfers, the kind that actually standout at the peak (in the water). I was part of their crew for the last couple of days and that was the bomb. I went in bigger, hollower and faster waves, took more critical drop and more severe wipeout but also more tasteful waves.

Sri Lanka was a blast, missing it already but can’t wait for the next uncanny encounters…

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Sri Lankans uncanny facts and my present steam of thoughts,

The world has been my new home for almost 4 months now. I stayed in many different places, packing and unpacking is becoming natural. It actually consists on opening my board bag and throwing everything I own in it. Like a snail I see my bags now as my new home. The more I travel the more I want to leave stuff behind. It is quite an exhilarating feeling to actually leave your apartment without being sure of where you will be for the next 1 to 10 years. So today well actually tonight I would like to write about what I learn about Lanka and also about myself lately.

Lankans are a bit rough on the first encounter; service is surely not in there first nature. They are smart and tough negotiator; some are quite the ‘filou’ type. For instance the owner of the place I’m staying at would tell the Russian couple that just arrived that the AC is broken in the all hotel in order to save the money from the electricity bill. But like Amsterdam, yes the city, Lankans will grow on you. This is something I came to realize in the past few days. As soon as they feel that you are coming back, try to speak their language and just be plain nice, you will see their true nature. You will always have a table even if it is plain busy, they will let you do your latte behind the bar the way you like it. Your Tuk-tuk driver will ask you to stop paying him and will negotiate prices for you and that is quite something to witness. They teach me words in Singali everyday and expect me to understand thing beyond what I have learned it is a really swell feeling. latte

Another thing I have learnt about Lanka is why the bus-drivers drive like Enzo Ferrari on crack. This is due to the way they are paid. They are actually racing each other in order to be the first one at the next stop. This because they are commissioned on the number of people they get on the bus and the amount of trips they do in a day. This makes the Galle road look like a game of Mario kart especially when your tuk-tuk driver thinks he is Yoshi and wants to overtake the bus by the third lane.

bus

What have I learnt about myself? Well lately I came to realize that the corporate world made me tougher than what I like. Don’t get me wrong I learnt a lot and met amazing people that I will keep as friends for a long time. But having to reach a target every week, the pressure of the last years, the vibe is something I do not miss. I believe that the capitalist world, system that has a lot of things to offer, place us in a sort of a rat race position that only a few can win or trick-out. Let me explain: You do great studies, get a well paid job that will allow you to go to the bank and ask for a loan for a beautiful house were your kids will grow… Then all of a sudden you need that paycheck at the end of the month and this is when you’re hooked. Again as any other 33 years old dude I like to drive a nice car, buy hip clothes, party with my friends but not at the price of being in a golden cage. There is a quote from Buffett that says something like: ‘Find the earliest you can, different ways of financing your life’. I think this is something a lot of us don’t do, hence my point about the golden cage…

So yeah you may ask, am I still a bit sour with people? Well I feel that everyday makes me a bit more mellow and old part of myself that I welcome again. May be the waves are washing the suit of my skin ;).

By rereading this post I do realize I’m fing darn lucky enough to have the chance to reflect on this issue.

See you soon in the world yours truly T Bagous,

Windows boat

SRI LANKA what to pack

Hello my dearest, My hopes are that you are doing awesome! I have been living, eating, dreaming and laughing in Lanka for a month now. This is what I think you should pack in order to cruise in this beautiful country. What to pack general:

  1. SUNSCREEN, you know the song from Baz Lhurmann – Everybody’s Free To Wear Sunscreen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTJ7AzBIJoI&list=RDsTJ7AzBIJoI#t=24. This is most definitely true in Lanka as a matter of fact a lot of this song is true for the rest of your life ;). Anyhow the sunscreen you can get here washes off as soon as she sees a drop of seawater. I was lucky enough that one of the caring people in my life gave me Daylong sunscreen swiss brand that avoided me to look and feel like a red lobster. You can see a lot ofInstagramCapture_f2e4c652-7670-4e59-9569-22e11ef84f29 those around the beaches here.
  2. SILK SLEEPING BAG, if you travel around Lanka you will at some point probably see, certainly smell and sleep in the worst bed you ever did. At this time if you have read this post, travelled to Lanka and taken this advice you will most def want to pay me a beer the next time you see me.
  3. MINI SWISS ARMY KNIFE, indeed you surf over some reef and rocks a lot of the time this means that at some point your delicate feet will be caress by urchin needle. Facing that specific encounter you will be more than pleased to use the tweezers hide in the side of the knife.

Daylong What to pack for surfers:

  1. EXTRA SET OF FINS, I didn’t see any FCS2 fins in the look a like surf shops that crossed my path. Lankian reef is really keen to chew on some brand new your fins especially if you don’t know the way out… You know that feeling when you go full speed back to the beach after a good session just lazy lying on your board letting a small wave carry you. Then you hear a big “CLUNK” this the sound of the reef grabbing a byte at your new set of FCS ;)…
  2. REPAIR KIT OR SOLAREZ, some of the repair I have seen here makes my own repair look like the work of Leonardo Da Vinci.ding rep
  3. WAX, not easy to come by as soon as you go out of Hikkaduwa and the local one rub of like butter under the sun. Check the smile on the local’s kid faces when you give them a piece of your imported wax, priceless…
  4. LAST GENERATION AWESOME FLEX BOARDSHORT, you know what I mean the one you wear and that you don’t even feel: The Phantom from Hurley or the Psycho freak from O’Neill… The empire of capitalism and the surf dollar industry has not yet reached the shore of the island. You will find fakes for sure but they aren’t flex at all and they are ball’s rash in one session guaranteed…

Sincerely yours Tony Bagus Windows palmtreees

Mirissa Baby or the people you meet on the way!

Hey my dearest!

I hope you are doing awesome today! I do! Way too much exclamation marks in one sentence ;). I have been cruising in the beautiful bay of Mirissa for the last week or so. All the guides will tell you that it is a little slice of beach cut from heaven. Well guess what? They are right. It is touristy but it has a cosmopolitan/bohemian vibe to it. The bohemian part suits be me best I think. The surf is smaller than in Hikkaduwa but you have a larger variety of breaks on some urchin reefs to make it a bit spicy.

The budhist monk, that gives meditation and yoga classes at the temple (cfr picture hereunder) says the following about time: “Past is gone, future is an illusion what matters is the present”. Following that quote, I will share with you today the best moments of my last week.

temple 1

The first one would be my first surf session here. It is a right so easy and fun to ride. The scenery is insane. You go around a big rock in order to reach the peak (where waves start breaking). On your left hand a small hill run along the beach, it’s actually a small jungle of palm trees to which some houses emerge from time to time. I was surfing my Tomo Vanguard and caught a reasonable amount of waves. I met 2 Italians with whom I was sharing this natural playground. You might have seen the video on my facebook. What made it such a great moment? I don’t know… The discovery of the spot, the speed I took on the waves, getting out of the water at the sunset my muscles done with a huge smile on my face.

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The second one was most definitely Australian day and the encounter of the following gang of Aussies coolcats. This is  the way I would describe them (for my sake I changed their name ;), guys good luck guessing:

  • Jesus look like Jesus, always a big happy smile on his face, tall and clever he will welcome anyone to the group and has a constant positive vibe. Just seeing him would make you smile even on a rainy monday in the traffic-jam to the office.
  • Mick, big tall guy with the build of an authentic Aussie lifeguard, is one of the few entrepreneurs that strongly and refreshingly inspired me lately (I know funny for a guy on holidays for the last 3 months). You can tell that is future will be bright and interesting.
  • Tom has the look of an Asian Tom Cruise at the time of the risky business movie (f***k!! (he hates it when I swear ;)) I can already see his head getting bigger by the minute) is always full of energy and ready to banter you the way you deserve it but in his own kind way.
  • Shane the only surfer of the group has an eye to find the right surf session. He is a natural Aussie surfer; he looks as comfy in the water as you are in your sofa on a rainy Sunday afternoon watching CSI. When he is serious, he has an air of Keanu Reeves in Speed. I know he is blushing reading this line.

I had a blast in Mirrisa with them. Refreshing to meet a crew of gentleman genuinely nice to their group and to the people around.

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The third moment I want to share with you is the surf I had at a spot called temple. That day Shane had had located a wave breaking 2 creeks further down. We took our boards walked like twenty minutes under a pizza-oven heavy sun. Yes it was 12:30! We arrived at small hill boarded with palm trees from which we saw 3 Sri-lankan surfers coming down. Talking some signs and some basic english they encouraged us to go up and down the mount. When we were at the top the wave was just the bomb and no one in the water BANKS!!! The small difficulty was to get in the water. We carefully walked down the big boulders that served as a beach and jumped in. Sharing this wave for the both of us was just insanely exhilarating. The scenery again was breath taking a Temple surrounded the hill and you could see Buddhist mount coloring the effervescent green with their bright red robes. I took an indecent number of glassy green waves. This I think to me is the closest you can get to a definition of paradise.

Wanna know what is the last moment I want to share with you? Well it was actually the making of the Gopro/thank you video I posted recently on Facebook. I loved it because I learnt so much, video editing, photo-editing, writing and so on… But it also made me feel closer to you guys and was a heck of a good feeling!

See you soon in the world, big hug Tony!

night plam tree

Hikkaduwa or how to get back on the surface so you can breath…

Hello You,

How have you been? Me? I’m good! Yeah I know I haven’t written in a while my bad. Well I have been travelling the earth lately, like a citizen of our planet… Since my last post I rented my place and started my journey. I must confess it is quite exhilarating to let things go. I was in the mountains with my family then helping a friend to start a business; indeed quite a peculiar stop on my way to a year of surf…

I landed in Sri Lanka 6 days ago; to be more specific on a stripe of beach called Hikkaduwa. Guesthouses are surrounding the ocean, palm trees are three storages high and the sun is massively shining. When you surf around 5 o clock you can hear Bob Marley or deep electro blasting trough old speakers announcing the happy hour (2 beers for 1,50 euros).

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I also have to tell you that it is one of the places where the Tsunami met the coast at full throttle; you can still see the ravages on the buildings and on some faces… It is a place where money is not yet ruling everything. I’m renting a room 200m away from a nice reef break for 18 euros a night, with wi-fi but hot water is an option. A good latte cost you 2 beers or as much as meal, 😉 your choice…

The people here are funny, it takes a bit of effort to make them smile. Azul for instance one of the waiter at my place usually come to your table by sliding his flip-flop on the ground like he is on roller blades. I have never seen a service so nonchalant. They clean the room every now and then when you ask. Sometimes it takes them around 30 mins to prepare the tea. It feels like the time isn’t an issue. Indeed no traffic jam, no meetings, just surf Yoga reading, writing…

You might want to know: How is the surf? Well it is fast and heavy especially on a spot called main reef. If you miss your takeoff like I did this morning you are good for a quality time under water. The wave tends to suck you down and hold you there for a while. This is commonly known as the washing machine effect also known as the wipeout. The same thing as at your local Mediamarkt there is some weak once and some pretty strong ones. The wipeout is one of the reason you wear a leash. The board floats way better than you do. She actually stays above water while you are dragged to the bottom. At that time (after the a good not delicate program) you can’t really tell where the surface is. Lucky enough when you are really under the foot of yours that wears the leash is pulled up giving you a sense of where you need to go if in any case you would like to get some air… Which I did eventually.

I’m safe and sound, I have a big smile on my face while writing this post, see you soon in the world!