Crash, learn, live, smile and get lucky,

Hello my dearest reader, How is life treating you lately? Mine keeps being interesting, different, peculiar, and curious with a hint of atypical. So yeah I landed in Bali a week ago; since then I found my new place, open my bank account, might have found a job, surfed my ass off, started all the papers for my visa and started to learn Bahasa (official language of Indonesia). I’m enumerating all this in the purpose of using it as an excuse to the fact that I didn’t post anything since last Sunday. I guess some of you would like to know why is there a picture of my knee that looks like French tartar in the header. Well it is linked to yesterday’s surf and it goes a little bit like this: I arrived on a beach called Geger in the middle of Nusa Dua. The easiest way to access the spot, that breaks on the reef a km a way from the beach. You have to take a 5 mins boat ride. Which I did, you could see nice set of a 1,5 m coming while cruising to the spot. The captain stopped the engine looked at me said something that I approximated to “jump” while pointing at the deep blue “deep” water. The waves were breaking 150 meters ahead. I have to admit, I wasn’t plenty enthusiast about the jump. I asked him if he could come back to pick me up he said something that was a clear no. I asked how do I go back? He just pointed at the beach far away. I was like: ok fuck it lets go! Jumped in attached my leash and paddled in.sign2 So far so good met 3 spanish guys and scored some waves. I touched the reef once with my foot but nothing bad. Then… A set caught me in and the third waves smashed me on the reef, which my knee encountered with a violence that made 50 Shades of Grey looked like My Little Poney. At that time I knew my knee was hurt, I didn’t know how bad dough. Reached it with my hand and felt a tiny hole in which my finger could enter… Yes for a brief instant my thoughts were: I near deep water with a bloody knee, not good, tidak bagus. My brain was kind enough to flash some images of Jaws. Usually when that sort of things happen to me, lucky enough my brains goes in prioritizing mode. The answer he came with was quite obvious: “Paddle to the beach dumb ass, we will assess the damages under the shower”. Twenty minutes later, I touch the sand and felt like Xris Columbus (Xris VMK if you are reading this post this abbreviation is for you). I have to admit my legs were a bit shaky. Went to the shower the boat captain was still there and told me to put lime on my wound. I was like great idea I always go surfing with lime in my pocket! Altogether, no stitches cuz it spent too much time in the water, Antibiotics and I should be able to go back in the water in 5 days. So yeah I was lucky no big injury! Take care and enjoy life to the fullest! Mini Temple

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